My journeying to Istanbul started with an uneventful busride followed by a madhouse shuttle to Sultanahmet, the city's tourist hub. The shuttle bus driver seemed keen on displaying his credentials to this weary tourist. He was hell bent on sideswiping any parked car in range and destroying the lower limbs of any and all poor sods unlucky enough to be crossing the road. After each attempt at "death or glory" he would look over to me with a proud smile and utter a few words in Turkish. I imagined them to be something to the tune of "Aren't I a bad ass." The chap in the back seat with the ten-pack-a-day smoker's voice was continually yelling at the driver throughout the journey. Driver was having none of whatever ten-pack was saying and would yell back and wave his arms in a slightly obscene fashion. This led ten-pack to make repeated phone calls which would again be roared out. As driver would make comments ten-pack would repeat them at five times the volume into his phone. I sat enamored with the novelty of their ridiculous conversation. It seemed as two actors on a small and unconvincing shuttle bus stage. Eventually ten-pack's stop was found and with a few more wails and weezes he was off with two large sacks of belongings. Driver then re-mustered all his energy toward ending my existence until eventually I was dropped at the doorstep of my hostel.

It felt strange at first to meet up with my old chums from Berlin. Ashley and Kate arrived in Istanbul two days before myself and a friend of theirs, Anica, the day before me. It seems so long ago that we were together for the World Cup final and since that time they journeyed thousands of miles west and I the same east. We had hinted at meeting up again in Istanbul but I never had considered it would happen. I arrived at the hostel before nine a.m. and found them still dozy from sleep and in their jim-jams. Apparently some German chap named Hans had barged in to their room two hours earlier with his sights set on stealing my bed. They were prepared for my arrival so Hans came as a bit of a shock and they had to turn the poor bugger out. I was happy to not discover a bed time guest named Hans in my weak and exhausted state. After the initial shock of seeing each other after such a long stint we chatted for a short while about where our travels had taken us before I attempted a nap but to no avail. I decided instead to join them for brekers before we hit the town for the afternoon.

That first day I wandered with them despite my exhaustion to the Blue Mosque, Spice Market and a ferry ride a meager distance up the Bosphorous. At the Blue Mosque the relative volume of the call to prayer was a tad overbearing. Small town mosques with small speakers were nothing compared to the decibels put out at this place. After a long wait for the faithful to emerge from within we bagged our shoes and took a look round inside. It was very impressive in its architecture and the four of us sat and gazed for a short while. Afterwards we headed to the docks and found the ferry that we guessed went the furthest upstream on the Bosphorous. Poor guess sadly and we made it only a short ways before the ferry docked at another port and then turned around and went back. It was amazing, however, to see the grand buildings lining many of the coastal areas. I imagined the reaction of sailors and travelers entering the city in Istanbul's hayday. They would have been overwhelmed at the sights and sounds of this bustling city. The numbers of markets, churches, and palaces is greater than those of other cities I have visited. Our last venture was a trip to the nearby spice market. I must admit twas a bit of a let down as it lacked any real variety. It seemed to me to have the same teas and few spices in each and every store. I had hoped for heady and intoxicating aromas and more of an original atmosphere. Tourism has created there a sterile and catered environment. Away from touristic areas I have found markets to be far more natural and cultural. I saw the Spice Market as a place that local people would not go because it is no longer meant for them but purely for tourists and that killed my enthusiasm for the place.

I added a photo gallery to Lovable Quirks so have a look. Some of the photos are from places I have yet to describe but bear with me as the reports are coming.